Showing posts with label haute couture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label haute couture. Show all posts

Sunday, July 24, 2011

The Difference Between Art and Imitation in Fashion as Presented by the House of Christian Dior

Alright so straight up I might say some bold things right now so agree with me or don't agree with me, whatever. I recently had the pleasure of viewing the latest Christian Dior Haute Couture collection by Bill
Gaytten. For those of you who are unaware of the current situation at the House of Dior.... a few months ago there was a disastrous occurance involving the House's Creative Director and most valuable creative asset to the company - the now infamous John Galliano. Everyone remembers his horrible racist rant which effectively ended his career and caused irreparable humiliation for the Galliano and the House of Dior alike. His rather public dismissal from his position with the company was devastating mainly because of the undeniable and highly enviable talent of John Galliano as a fashion designer. He has since been involved in countless trials and hassels as a result of his blatantly despicable behavior, and his position at the House of Dior has of course,
been filled.
Bill Gaytten, the newly appointed Creative Director worked under the master himself for
more than a decade prior to the incidents which occurred this past February. He was one of his
most intimate confidants and facilitators and he understood the way that Galliano worked better than anyone else. He was
the clear choice for the position. Think back to when Leigh McQueen died in 2010 and he was replaced by his assistant, Sarah Burton, whose collection ended up being so staggeringly good that she was envied for her ability to continue the McQueen tradition with her own personal spin on it. Gaytten was I think meant to try and replicate this situation, but has unfortunately come
off much less than adequate in comparison to either Galliano or Sarah Burton herself.
Part of the reason I went into fashion design and became so enamored with the fashion industry was John Galliano. I can still identify key features in many of his most eye popping collections with Christian Dior as well as with his own self-titled label. I was such an enormously huge fan of his. Very few other designers have had the ability to actually make me cry while witnessing the absolute beauty he was able to accomplish with clothing. His dismissal from Diorand the whole scandall in general hit me pretty hard. Every collection Petey the Troll has ever done has been influenced by his techniques and contributions to the ongoing dialogue about fashion and glamour. The collection is presented in three parts. First we have the cocktail dresses and skirt-top combos, all presented with a clear attempt at high drama in the manner of John Galliano. The silhouettes were almost exactly the same as in some of the most recent Dior collections, featuring that famous "Dior Woman" look from the late 40s that John used so frequently. The patterned fabrics were just way too bold and over the top and the colour choices were frankly somewhat lack luster. The second section was horrifying. The models wearing theflowy full length chiffon dresses with the wild hair were just outrageous. Who said that was okay for them to look like that out on stage?? As they walk by they swoosh their arms about in a manner not uncommon to that of Morticia Addams or Lily Munster. Weird. The last bit with the ball gowns is where the real Couture comes out. I personally would have been much happier if the show consisted of nothing but these types of dresses and drop all the other garbage.
Not to say that most of these dresses aren't unnecessarily over the top. They come off more
as amateur art pieces than Christian Dior Couture gowns. The last one however, did have my
eye glued to the screen for the duration of her walk from thew beginning to the end of the runway. The choice of fabric and colour makes her look like an architectural masterpiece - perhaps the only win in the collection. Butttttt then the end comes and this suggestion is promptly ruined by the director's choice to have her standing at the back of the stage like a weird statue of liberty or something while the designers come out and wave their little hands. It
looked forced, it looked like they were trying to do something epic with something that just wasn't going to be epic.
He had the key elements. He had the drama and the high contrast and the variety of fabrics and the typical Galliano style show going on with the beginning, middle and end, but in my humble opinion Gaytten was lacking one main thing in his collection. Where is the beauty?? Where is the elegance and grace of the Dior woman?? The Dior woman is supposed to have class and be the most beautiful woman in the room wearing the most beautifully constructed and
created clothing. Gaytten missed the boat on that one I think.

Thanks that was my rant about Christian Dior. See you soon!!

Monday, February 7, 2011

Le Couturier: Origami, Fashion-gasms and "Un-Wearable" Clothing

I love this time of year. I'm not talking about the horrifying weather or the desperate feeling that Spring will never come, but the fashionable cure for all of those woes at the end of January/beginning of February - the new Spring Couture Collections. Our own line, Petey Couture (a line we created for the purpose of creating wearable art,) is released in April to accomodate Alternative Fashion Week. I find it kind of perfect thought because as we create the pieces for our own collection, we're viewing the newly finished masterpieces from the House of Chanel, the House of Dior and other fab fashion houses all over the fashion world.

I spent the entire day yesterday and today sketching, pattern drafting and creating little paper, origami flowers for one of my dresses for the Couture line. It's called a Kusadama Flower and it's pretty simple to make, but it involves a lot of patient cutting out squares and gluing little bits of paper together. I'm only alright with it because I know it'll be stunning on the final pieces. I also figured out how to make fabric swirl the way I want it to on the front a dress without actually changing or losing the structure of the garment. Yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy.

I didn't have to work today, so I decided to take my time and make flowers all day while doing my laundry and grocery shopping. It's a nice day off from the regular rush of day to day life. I've spent a lot of that time philosophising on love with John and Yoko in the 1973 documentary of the making of Imagine "Gimme Some Truth" (amazing,) and now about life and fashion with Karl Lagerfeld in the recently recorded French documentary "Lagerfeld Confidential."
I find it difficult, while watching John and Yoko in all their glory talking about life frankly in a way they've always been admired for. I think about the relationship to that type of lifestyle as opposed to the lifestyle I've chosen - an unashamed, slave to fashion and art. The unfortunate argument about Couture is its relevance to society in today's context. I believe the answer to this argument is that Couture is for fashion, what the symphony is for music. It is loved for its greatness and only the very best of the industry with the most talent and the most respect can partake in the trade. The symphony is not widely attended in most cases, and exists as a tribute to truly high quality music. I always think of my dad's response to Couture (my father is the epitome of Canadian, mid-fifties father...) which is only that the clothes are "un-wearable" and therefore useless as a sort of fashion. I mean, really, fashion is the most frivolous industry in the world, but why is it that in our over-capitalized world we must take our frustrations with frivolity out on fashion? Let us have our fun, will you?

I'm also trying to find a couple more models for the presentation of the Couture line at FAT this Spring. I think it's pretty obvious from our past photo shoots and shows that we do not tend to use models that are conventionally perfect looking or model like. I'd pick a girl with pretty eyes and an ass over a twig with a plain face any day. So if you think you have a unique look, or you know someone who might fit in with our style, email me at vanessapetey@gmail.com for more info!!
So for now, check out the following Couture collections and keep reading this blog for Petey Couture updates over the next couple of months! Hello February!!

Christian Dior
Chanel
Jean Paul Gautier
Valentino

Until then,
V