Canadian Independent Music and its Influence on Street Fashion in Toronto

 At my day job, I'm fortunate enough to meet a lot of new people all the time. My particular circumstance for the past few months has been that I have seen my place of work go through almost a complete turnover of employees. That means meeting and having to get to know new people very frequently, which of course results in the development of methods of approaching certain individuals with whom you take an interest. Are you from Toronto? Did you go to University? Do you have a boyfriend, etc... One of my favourites, due to the response's ability to speak volumes about the speaker who has unintentionally offered such information is, “So, what music do you listen to?”

The twentieth century made this possible. There are currently two types of people who can be immediately categorized based on their responses to the previously stated question. There are music lovers and there are other people... and if you're a music lover, you know exactly what I mean. If you're a music lover, you've spent many good hours of your life with headphones on, pressing them into your ears to make it even louder than it already is, blaring out of the ipod, cellphone, laptop, walkman, stereo, 8-track, whatever. You're open to hearing the most experimental of genres, and you have a deep appreciation for the classics from ages of the past. There are of course many sub-types under the category of music lover, but if you happen to be one, and you meet another, you know that you understand each other on some level as a result. It's quite the fantastic thing about our generation's interpretation of the music industry.

The Canadian music scene has, in the past ten years been so impressive in quality and quantity that it has managed, in the opinion of many, to out-do their American counterparts. I'm obviously not talking about Nickleback or Celine Dion... everyone knows that's mainstream bullshit created by an American audience who can't get the image of Canadian culture being nothing more than old men “rockstars” with terrible style and bad facial hair. It's barely even worth mentioning in Canada because we're so embarrassed of our unfortunate association with this horrifying image. *Sigh*

Since I moved to Toronto last January, I've been engulfed in the shockingly impressive underground music scene which not only exists here, but in the other major cities like Montreal, Vancouver and Calgary. Windsor was different. Windsor is the type of city that has its own little scene that is completely contained within the city limits. The music was fantastic, but it didn't have the potential for national exposure like some of the artists I've met and seen in Toronto.

So what kind of influence foes this have on the way people dress? Off the top of my head right now I can think of at least ten of my male friends who all dress exactly the same. Though it's kind of funny, I have to ask myself why this happens. What is it about these people that makes them all dress and act in similar ways?

As I walk down the crowded downtown streets of Toronto I look around at a sea of skinny jeans, cardigans and, now that it's winter, pea coats, and scarves, I wonder what's coming next and what all of these same people will be wearing five years from now.  

Until then!

V

Fashiongasms and Epiphanies: TO in the Wintertime

Anyone who knows me personally, knows that my day job is none other than coffee shop barista. It is the accepted fate of any artist, that they should find some other method of paying the bills and maintaining their fabulous artist lifestyles while they toil away at their often fruitless, but always satisfying creative outlet of choice. I like my job if for nothing other than the ever present opportunity to meet all kinds of people from all different walks of life. Especially working on King Street West on the doorstep of the fashion district, some of our clientele are nothing short of magazine worthy in their perfectly put together outfits.

Both at work and in everyday life here in Toronto, I see all kinds of fantastic and unique details on garments and in all the many ways people dress themselves up. For example, I recall a streetcar ride eastbound on St. Clair Ave, approaching Avenue Rd where that big, beautiful old apartment building is with the park and the vines and stuff. It's raining outside and I look over and there's a man wearing a long black duster coat down to his knees, and his head is mostly covered by the giant, oversized gold and black umbrella he's holding to shield himself from the falling elements. The image with all the colours and the rain and the brevity of the encounter was so striking that it burned itself into my mind and has existed ever since as an image I someday hope to recreate with a camera, or a canvas.

Twice today I got ideas for the womens line of Spring jackets which will follow the mens, (construction will be underway beginning in February 2012) from women I saw on subway. I decided to go thrift store shopping for boots (I ended up getting two of the most fantastic pairs of boots ever, one is brown suede, thigh high with two zippers and buckles and the other is shorties with a little heal and a basket weave pattern in leather around the ankle. LOVE.) so I got on the Bloor line eastbound. The first woman I watched for a little while, trying to figure out a way to photograph her coat without her thinking I was a creep. I failed. It was black wool, but around the shoulders, elbows and in some areas of the front panels, there were darker black, textured appliques in random fluid forms. It was really stunning the way it was done and I immediately noted to myself in my phone to remind me to write about the experience in this post. The second girl I only saw for a second because she got on at the stop just before I got off and was a few feet away from me standing by the door. Her jacket was a simple double breasted fit and flare wool coat, but the sleeves were what were particularly intriguing. Mid forearm, I'd say about 5 inches from the wrist, began a 60 degree angled flare with six little buttons on the bottom side. Not 17^th century obnoxiously or anything, but there was a little tiny bit of lace ruffling just at the cuff as well, giving it this fantastic Little Women, turn of the century feeling to a relatively modern looking coat. I just had to make note of it.

I've been working a ton lately, getting full time hours and all, which is fantastic for my bank account, but not so much for the personal life or the artistic life I love so dearly. Last week for example I spent six straight days doing basically nothing but sleep and work. However, in my down time I was preparing for today when I would make the finalized pattern for the next item in my personal Petey the Troll collection of jackets and coats for Men.

Trench coat!!!! This has been the only thing on my mind all week. I managed to complete the patterns for my wedding dress commissions on my last day off, so I have nothing but my sexy trench to think about today. It's a lightweight medium grey wool with two defining linings; one plain black polyester and the other a black, white, yellow plaid I've used in previous Petey collections. There are front and back storm flaps, two side pockets and two inside pockets, 10 front buttons and countless other buttons scatter throughout.

I'm off now to put the rest of it together and I'll be posting photographs to my Twitter account as well as my Facebook all day!  

Thanks for reading!

V

Pea Coat versus Blazer and the Progression of Petey the Troll

Heyy thar, interested parties and people who like clothes.

I've got a couple days off at the beginning of this week as a result of a client meeting this evening about a couple of wedding dresses. The bride is coming to have her measurements taken and to approve the sketches and fabric swatches I've chosen for both her actual wedding ceremony gown and her reception party dress. I'm also making the bridesmaids dresses for this occasion, but those will be discussed in further detail at a later date. If she agrees and likes my design, I'll come back and tell you all about it, but until then, it must remain a mystery to all those but the seamstress and her client (and Josh, who was probably sitting next to me while I was sketching...ahem.)

I like timelines. I like schedules and having a plan for every hour and every day and I like knowing way in advanced to be organized. I never was a fan of surprise occasions, unless they are a planned surprise. You betcha I've planned this hour of the day to sit down and write a blog after hitting the pipe a few unglamourous times on this lovely Monday afternoon. I've got two hours until I meet with my client so let's get into it.

This week has been a strange one. Drama at work, drama with friends, and feeling my winter urge to redirect my thoughts inward, has caused for some sad nights, feeling defeated and hopeless, as we all do, from time to time. One of the more positive results of these feelings is that I tend to dive into my mind, and find energy that I didn't know existed in an effort to create with originality and efficiency. For example, I spent two weeks preparing a pattern, looking for fabric and drawing sketches for a pea coat I was making for Josh. I went the whole nine yards with this one. I started with a basic pattern for a men's blazer, from which all other jacket patterns can be made (with a little skill and a lot of knowledge about the construction of clothing and the shape of the human body). I then altered the pieces of the pattern in order to achieve a different end result in terms of the style of jacket.

How does one turn a blazer into a pea coat?

Back up. What IS a pea coat? What is a blazer? Which pieces have to be altered in order to make the necessary changes?

A pea coat is a double breasted style jacket, designed for sailors in the British Navy during the Victorian era. Originally, it would have only been found in navy blue, and would have been longer than the typical styles we see in fashion today. The end result of Josh's coat was going to include wrist belts, inseam pockets, epaulettes, a partial waistband and an oversized collar. The colour we chose was black, and the inner lining is the most wicked colour cream when it's up against the black. The buttons are gold, it's just awesome. I digress.

The pattern I had to start with was a blazer pattern, so what's a blazer? The word blazer is used commonly to cover a lot of variations of the same sort of jacket. It's single breasted, usually has patch pockets, and vents and is usually seen as part of a suit, or as a uniform item. The style became popular as a result of it's use in school uniforms at establishments such as Oxford in England, or Harvard in the United States.

In order to change this pattern into a completely different coat I had to change almost everything. I shortened it, I straightened the seams, took out the back vents and added the waistband, completely changed the front panels from single breasted and symmetrical to double breasted and entirely asymmetrical. Then I invented my own collar and added the wrist belts, inseam pockets and epaulettes to get exactly what I wanted.

When I got the fabric I cut it out, and then went into the sewing room for eight straight hours to come out with a completely finished coat. It's my most recent masterpiece, mostly because I was surprised at how well the construction and creation of it actually went. It reassured my confidence in myself as a seamstress. :)

Next up in my menswear line is a trench coat. I've got a couple of dudes in mind for whom I'd like to make this trench coat, but if you'd like it to be you because you always really wanted a trench coat or something, than hit me up!! (Now, I'm talking like, Burberry Brit style trench here, not like, scary oversized goth shit or anything... fyi.)

One of Petey the Troll's trademark behaviours back in the day, was to choose individuals we know, male and female, who have a look or a style that we dig and that we think would fit our clothes. Then we use that person as the inspiration for the garment we happen to be working on and make it to their measurements as a prototype for the finished collection. All I ask of these chosen individuals is that they let me photograph them in the garment and use the pictures for our website, this blog, promotion, portfolios, etc etc. If they want to keep the garment afterwards, they could get it at the cost of materials only instead of paying full price like everyone else! Get it?

So if you're interested, or know someone who might be, email me! I can't guarentee 100% that you'll be chosen, but at least I'll know you're down.

You can get me at vanessapetey@gmail.com or on my Facebook if you happen to be a friend.

See you soon, thanks!!

Winter Coats and Menswear – It's Working Time

<-----Horrid

It's MoMo-vember and it's beginning to get chilly underneath all of those horrid trucker moustaches here in Toronto. Costume season is over and the holidays are on their way and winter's mean-ice-pellets-to-face winds are causing the widespread need for people to layer up their clothing and find this year's winter coat to keep them warm and safe in the skyscraper-lined wind tunnels we call downtown.

Winter can sometimes be quite the interesting time for fashion, though, providing new challenges and opportunities to be both stylish and trendy, but also functional and warm at the same time. I can hear my father saying “What does it matter whatcha look like so long as you're prepared for the weather!” Oh, daddy.

I currently have two major projects underway both heading in a fantastic direction, but both being a lot of work ahead of me. The first is the wedding I may have mentioned in this blog before, the very last wedding I will be taking on for some time. She's been a client of mine for about 6 months now and she's consistently been an avid admirer of my work with Petey the Troll and Petey Couture, in such a flattering way that I hardly want to charge her at all. At this time we're still in the design stage of the four dresses (including the wedding gown, yes yes!) and I've been making sketches and technical sketches and searching for fabric swatches etc. The fact that this bride is so open to my ideas and allowing me to use my own creativity to produce her dresses will definitely produce a better result than previous work I've done under Petey Couture where the bridesmaids were weirdly specific about the styles, colours and fabrics I used in the construction. After all *ahem* I am an artist.

The second project is on the complete opposite end of the spectrum and is something I've been working on getting going for months now: Petey the Troll Menswear Spring 2012. I'm expecting to be finished this February 2012 with the design, construction, photography and accessibility of this line. Part of my plan for the presentation of the line is an old school photo shoot like Meaghan and I used to do in the old days with WetFresco and yes, I'll be looking for models. (I've actually kind of been thinking about it for a while and have like half the guys picked for who I want involved in this project... it's not creepy, it's pro-active.

So now that the updates are out of the way, let's talk men's jackets. Of the previously mentioned collection, I've completed, thus far, only one jacket for a friend of mine. This particular friend is a lot of fun to dress, and we'd discussed elements of design on several occasions. He inspired my design for a grey, fitted wool blazer with a iridescent blue, brown and orange, paisley printed, polyester lining. The key elements of the jacket include front flap pockets, two bottons, with small detailing in black lace on the two front side seams of the garment. This was an idea brought to me by the friend in question, who challenged me to find a way to include lace on a man's jacket which would still be tasteful and not too feminine. He loved what I came up with and I decided that this would be the first piece in this new collection. The theme is new ideas and new beginnings.

I've just finished the details on the pattern for the next jacket in the collection: a pea coat for Josh, my favourite man in the whole world to dress. Black solid wool, cream, poly lining, with 8 front buttons, an oversized tailored collar, two princess seam insert pockets, epaulettes, and sleeve and mid back belts. It's really well fitted and he's skinny as hell, so it looks pretty much amazing. The buttons are small and brass and are not overstated. The secret comes when he undoes his jacket to reveal the glowing cream coloured interior with the inside breast pocket. It's fancy, and I'm pretty excited.

My challenge for myself with this collection is to create 6-10 jackets of different staple jacket and coat styles with my own variations and versions interjected throughout. Stay tuned to read more about the construction of this pea coat I am working on as the second piece for the final collection, as well as further information on the history of the pea coat and the remaining styles I will choose for the completion of the collection by this February, 2011. 

Trends and Thoughts on Spring Ready to Wear 2012

I've always had an appreciation for the sequential composition of the international fashion weeks which, appear periodically to show the world what hundreds of thousands of dedicated designers, artists, seamstresses have come up with in six months.  I like that New York's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week comes first in the presentations of the really big fashion centers of the world.  It starts it with a bang and reminds everyone in the world that it is indeed fashion week.  Following them are London and Milan, both absolutely unique and fantastic in their own ways.  They feature some of the biggest names in the industry from Burberry Prorsum to Georio Armani and all the while, the spectators know that the best is only yet to come.  Paris, the undisputed fashion capital of the world is the last of the giants.  Anyone who's anyone in the industry is in Paris at this point.  It's like, maybe you can only get away from your fancy job in LA for one week so you have to choose which of the heavyweights to attend.  Paris is always the one.  Nothing beats Parisian fashion and everyone knows it.
     This season thus far has had significantly less drama than those of the recent past.  No major deaths this season or firings of highly respected and then disgraced fashion icons.  Just beautiful clothes reflecting a few major trends that seem to be dominating the runways on an international scale.


Back to Basics
Women these days in North America find themselves in a peculiar setting in which economic times are hard, budgeting is key and frivolity is limited.  These major designers have identified this key aspect in the way women are dressing themselves and have both figuratively and literally weaved it into their collections.  One identifiable aspect of this trend is the use of knitting and crocheting, an ancient handy craft which, until recently, has been seen as something only your grandmother spent her time doing.  Thanks to the creative, resourceful new generation of young twenty-somethings, it's actually become all the rage.
Examples of this trend can be seen throughout the collections of Burberry Prorsum, Prada and in Vivienne Westwood's Red Label.

Defining Ostentation 
On the opposing end of the above theory, is the overly decorative and highly luxurious clothes being produced mainly in Italy.  These two trends usually coincide as a result of two types of reactions to the same situation.  Some women want to get back to hand crafted, earth friendly clothing, while others want to prove that the state of the economy and the world itself could not touch their high social standing and indeed, their pocket books.  Why not wear a dress completely covered in jewels or strips of gold like in the Dolce and Gabbana or Roberto Cavalli shows?  That'll show 'em how fancy we are.


Classic Femininity vs. Androgyny
Every season has its own version of this dichotomy of clothing styles which, occur throughout every collection in some form or another.  After Alexander McQueen brought back the big pointy shoulders for women, the power suit look has come back and women are now in some cases wearing clothes that were specifically designed and cut for men.  On the antithesis is the typical Christian Dior Woman, hourglass shape which is still quite prominent across the fashion board.  Flared skirt, fitted dresses with over-sized prints and feminine shoulder and necklines, the likes of which could be found in Betty Draper's closet, are still quite present and relevant.

Overall, it's obvious that duality of style, tone and overall concepts in fashion are the real theme this season.
By this point, Paris Fashion Week is underway and the collections are coming out every day this week.  Once they're all done (and I've settled in my new fab apartment!!) I'll be posting a summary of the most influential Paris shows and my thoughts on the overall season.

Thanks for reading!!

     

Moving Along...

I just sat down here with this laptop to scribble out an update blog about Petey the Troll Apparel and my solo work as a costume maker/ wedding stylist / tortured, over-worked-under-paid seamstress.  When I logged into the blog site I use, it looked completely different than the last time I posted something.  New features, new design and the stats of all of my previous blog posts right there on the front page.  Genius.  So after I get over the initial "shit, it must have been a while since I posed anything if the entire interface is completely different" shock... and then take a look and the stats for my last post with this particular blog.  I was ashamed and sad to realize that my last post was almost two months ago. :( 
     I have several excuses, most of which have to do with work and searching endlessly for the perfect apartment to fit myself, my boyfriend, Meaghan, and our three unruly, yet lovable cats.  Not to mention an industrial sewing machine, a closet full of fabric and an unfortunate amount of shoes between the three of us sad fashion victims.  The search has not been easy and has admittedly taken up the majority of my time over the past few weeks.   
     Additionally, I've spent almost the entire summer working on dress commissions from a variety of clients (some absolutely delightful, others...not so much...) which I've found less than likable and have decided to stop doing altogether.  I have one remaining client to whom I promised bridesmaid dresses a while ago... so I'm doing this one last project, but will no longer be taking dress commissions hence forth, unless it is a personal favor for a friend or another exception as such. 
    What I've decided to do instead is look deeply into the study of the creation, construction and design of jackets and coats.  Over the next couple of months (among a plethora of fashion show review posts ;) I will start writing more often about the goings on with Petey the Troll Apparel as we crawl out of our woes and start working again.  Specifically, I'm going to start blogging about the history of some styles of jackets and coats as we know them today, and discuss my thoughts about jacket design in both mens and womensware in fashion.  I'm pretty excited. :)


So there it is, my apology and my update all in one go, hoping desperately that you'll still read what I have to say, 
Yours always, 


Vanessa Petey Hughes

The Difference Between Art and Imitation in Fashion as Presented by the House of Christian Dior

Alright so straight up I might say some bold things right now so agree with me or don't agree with me, whatever. I recently had the pleasure of viewing the latest Christian Dior Haute Couture collection by Bill

Gaytten. For those of you who are unaware of the current situation at the House of Dior.... a few months ago there was a disastrous occurance involving the House's Creative Director and most valuable creative asset to the company - the now infamous John Galliano. Everyone remembers his horrible racist rant which effectively ended his career and caused irreparable humiliation for the Galliano and the House of Dior alike. His rather public dismissal from his position with the company was devastating mainly because of the undeniable and highly enviable talent of John Galliano as a fashion designer. He has since been involved in countless trials and hassels as a result of his blatantly despicable behavior, and his position at the House of Dior has of course,

been filled.

Bill Gaytten, the newly appointed Creative Director worked under the master himself for

more than a decade prior to the incidents which occurred this past February. He was one of his

most intimate confidants and facilitators and he understood the way that Galliano worked better than anyone else. He was

the clear choice for the position. Think back to when Leigh McQueen died in 2010 and he was replaced by his assistant, Sarah Burton, whose collection ended up being so staggeringly good that she was envied for her ability to continue the McQueen tradition with her own personal spin on it. Gaytten was I think meant to try and replicate this situation, but has unfortunately come

off much less than adequate in comparison to either Galliano or Sarah Burton herself.

Part of the reason I went into fashion design and became so enamored with the fashion industry was John Galliano. I can still identify key features in many of his most eye popping collections with Christian Dior as well as with his own self-titled label. I was such an enormously huge fan of his. Very few other designers have had the ability to actually make me cry while witnessing the absolute beauty he was able to accomplish with clothing. His dismissal from Diorand the whole scandall in general hit me pretty hard. Every collection Petey the Troll has ever done has been influenced by his techniques and contributions to the ongoing dialogue about fashion and glamour. The collection is presented in three parts. First we have the cocktail dresses and skirt-top combos, all presented with a clear attempt at high drama in the manner of John Galliano. The silhouettes were almost exactly the same as in some of the most recent Dior collections, featuring that famous "Dior Woman" look from the late 40s that John used so frequently. The patterned fabrics were just way too bold and over the top and the colour choices were frankly somewhat lack luster. The second section was horrifying. The models wearing theflowy full length chiffon dresses with the wild hair were just outrageous. Who said that was okay for them to look like that out on stage?? As they walk by they swoosh their arms about in a manner not uncommon to that of Morticia Addams or Lily Munster. Weird. The last bit with the ball gowns is where the real Couture comes out. I personally would have been much happier if the show consisted of nothing but these types of dresses and drop all the other garbage.

Not to say that most of these dresses aren't unnecessarily over the top. They come off more

as amateur art pieces than Christian Dior Couture gowns. The last one however, did have my

eye glued to the screen for the duration of her walk from thew beginning to the end of the runway. The choice of fabric and colour makes her look like an architectural masterpiece - perhaps the only win in the collection. Butttttt then the end comes and this suggestion is promptly ruined by the director's choice to have her standing at the back of the stage like a weird statue of liberty or something while the designers come out and wave their little hands. It

looked forced, it looked like they were trying to do something epic with something that just wasn't going to be epic.

He had the key elements. He had the drama and the high contrast and the variety of fabrics and the typical Galliano style show going on with the beginning, middle and end, but in my humble opinion Gaytten was lacking one main thing in his collection. Where is the beauty?? Where is the elegance and grace of the Dior woman?? The Dior woman is supposed to have class and be the most beautiful woman in the room wearing the most beautifully constructed and

created clothing. Gaytten missed the boat on that one I think.

Thanks that was my rant about Christian Dior. See you soon!!